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TOO bRIGHT????

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Post by DMC 2009-03-17, 09:48

oK, i KEEP seeing these pictures of waterfalls and whatnot where the water is all silky and shows awsome movement.... whats the trick... I was told to shoot manual at atleast F22, and then slow down the shutter speed? All I get is supper overexposed pictures, and if I speed up the shot, it slowly comes back to normal, but the water appears normal too,


what am I doing wrong. Could someone share with me exact #'s that would work, or a starting point. I found some rapids near my home and have been there 3 times and have failed to get the effect right...

Thanks for the help

I'm using a Cannon XSI.??? Maybee I don't fully understand ISO either, I usually don't take it off AUTO ISO>>?? not sure when to adjust this.?
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Post by SpiffyPix 2009-03-17, 10:37

I think you might be better off using Aperture priority (Av). Select F/22 and then the camera will select the shutter speed.

As far as ISO goes...

I usually select my own. ISO100 would be for very sunny, outdoor shots. 400 would be for a cloudy day or late day. What I would suggest with this situation is play w/the different ISOs, depending on your lighting. Take a test shot with different ISOs. That's the nice part about DSLRs! You can take a shot, check the LCD and adjust from there.

Not sure if I have explained myself very well...I'm tired. Shocked

Mel
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Post by garyros 2009-03-17, 11:42

Most important at the time of exposure is to have the camera on a tripod. You will not be able to hand-hold this. The key here is to go to Shutter Priority and to have control over your exposed highlights. Additionally, you need to use the slowest ISO available. ISO 100 is good, but 50 would be better. To accomplish this, you need to use either a neutral density filter or polarizer filter.

You must use a shutter speed of 1/15 or slower. Even one to two seconds are great. You will not be able to hold highlights in the "sheen" of the water.

To sum it up:

1. Camera on tripod.
2. ND or polarizer on the lens.
3. Shutter speed of 1/15 or slower (best in the seconds range).
4. Shoot Raw so you have control in processing.

Let me know if you need more info.

Thanks.

Gary
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Post by SpiffyPix 2009-03-17, 14:12

yeah, what Gary said. Duh, Mel. Rolling Eyes
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Post by meanstreak02 2009-03-17, 16:14

you're going to want a strong neutral density filter I have a nd2 Hoya and it barely affects my shutter speed.
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Post by DAVE RHUBERG 2009-03-24, 19:35

Use a polarizer at least, that gives you 2 stops usually.
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